Wood Stoves vs. Wood Furnaces: Which Is Right for You?

A wood stove with a fire burning in it compared alongside a Fire Chief FC1000E wood furnace with a versus symbol between the two

Wood Stoves vs. Wood Furnaces: Which Is Right for You?

Finding the right heating appliance is important, especially if you live in an area with long, harsh winters. And when it comes to wood heating, your choice essentially narrows to two options: wood stoves and wood burning furnaces.

Even within each one of those categories, there are dozens of models available. But let’s start with the basics.

This guide will help you decide between purchasing a wood burning furnace or a wood stove. We’ll compare four popular wood stoves:

Against four popular wood burning furnaces:

We’ll compare these groups of stoves and furnaces based on their heat output, their overall heating area, their burn time, and their firebox capacities. By the time you’re finished here, you’ll understand whether your living space is better suited to a wood stove or a wood furnace.

Note: All wood stove and wood furnace specifications listed in this guide come straight from their manufacturers.

Wood Stoves vs. Wood Furnaces: Heat Output

A Fire Chief FC1000E wood burning furnace installed into ductwork in an unfinished basement with a full, half-cord log rack to the right

Wood furnaces and stoves deliver heat differently from each other. Stoves radiate heat into the room in which they’re installed. The closer you are to the stove, the warmer you’ll be. Some wood stoves come with a blower, but they’re few and far between (and tend not to work very well).

Wood furnaces, on the other hand, are connected directly to your home’s ductwork just like a gas furnace. They come with powerful blower motors that push the heat from the firebox into every room of your home.

While this certainly makes wood furnaces more complex to install than a wood stove, they’re also much better equipped to deliver heat throughout your entire home (as opposed to just one room). Here’s a look at the heat output of popular wood stoves and wood burning furnaces (measured in British thermal units, or BTUs):

Wood Stove ModelHeat OutputWood Furnace ModelHeat Output
Vermont Castings Defiant56,000 BTUsFire Chief FC1000E143,500 BTUs
Lopi Endeavor NexGen-Hybrid70,500 BTUsDrolet Heat Commander310,000 BTUs
Drolet Escape 180075,000 BTUsKuuma Vapor-Fire 100120,000 BTUs
Hearthstone Heritage60,000 BTUsUS Stove Hot Blast HB1520180,000 BTUs

The wood burning furnace with the lowest output delivers nearly double the heat of the wood stove with the highest output.

When it comes to the amount of heat delivered, wood furnaces are much more robust than wood stoves.

Wood Stoves vs. Wood Furnaces: Heating Area

A wood log rack stuffed with over a cord of wood in front of a wood cabin covered in snow in the middle of the woods

So we’ve covered the amount of heat each type of appliance puts out. But what about the overall area they’re capable of heating?

Stoves and furnaces can vary pretty widely from each other in their own categories. But, as with heat output, there’s a pretty clear split between each kind of heater:

Wood Stove ModelHeating Area (sq ft)Wood Furnace ModelHeating Area (sq ft)
Vermont Castings Defiant1,300 – 2,800Fire Chief FC1000EUp to 2,500
Lopi Endeavor NexGen-Hybrid2,000Drolet Heat Commander1,000 – 2,500
Drolet Escape 1800500 – 2,000Kuuma Vapor-Fire 100Up to 3,500
Hearthstone Heritage2,000US Stove Hot Blast HB1520Up to 3,500

In general, wood stoves top off at about 2,000 square feet of heating capacity. Furnaces, on the other hand, can heat homes up to 3,500 square feet.

This doesn’t mean that one is necessarily better than the other. For example, if you have a small, 700 square foot cabin, a Kuuma Vapor-Fire 100 may be overkill for your needs. Instead, you may be better off with a smaller Drolet Escape 1800 wood stove.

It all depends on the size of your living space and how much heat you need to deliver to that space. But in general:

  • For whole-home heating, opt for a wood furnace
  • For small-home or single-room heating, a stove may serve you better

Wood Stoves vs. Wood Furnaces: Burn Time

A burning pile of about six logs with ash around them against a black background

The biggest appeal of a gas furnace is that you essentially never have to interact with it (unless it needs repairs, of course). Natural gas is always available, and the thermometer dictates when the furnace turns on and off.

Wood burning appliances are different, obviously. You have to load wood into them every time you want heat delivered. Naturally, the longer the wood burns in the firebox, the less often you’ll have to load more wood.

So, between wood stoves and wood furnaces, which tends to burn longer? Or, put another way, which one do you have to load more often?

Let’s take a look at our model comparisons:

Wood Stove ModelBurn TimeWood Furnace ModelBurn Time
Vermont Castings Defiant14 hoursFire Chief FC1000E9 hours
Lopi Endeavor NexGen-Hybrid10 hoursDrolet Heat Commander10 hours
Drolet Escape 18008 hoursKuuma Vapor-Fire 10010 – 12 hours
Hearthstone Heritage12 hoursUS Stove Hot Blast HB152010 hours

Wood stoves have a slight edge over the furnaces, but for the most part, you’ll generally get around the same burn time for each kind of appliance. On average, you should expect to load a stove or furnace two or three times a day (depending on the outside temperature, the model you buy, or the type of firewood you burn).

Wood Stoves vs. Wood Furnaces: Firebox Capacity

A Fire Chief FC1000E wood furnace's firebox with fire brick stacked inside

We know how long wood burns in a stove or furnace, how much heat they can deliver, and how much area the delivered heat covers. There’s just one question left: “How much firewood can each type of appliance fit?

That all depends on the capacity of the firebox (the “compartment” that holds the firewood). Stove fireboxes tend to be a fair bit smaller than furnace fireboxes:

Wood Stove ModelFirebox CapacityWood Furnace ModelFirebox Capacity
Vermont Castings Defiant3.2 cubic feetFire Chief FC1000E3.4 cubic feet
Lopi Endeavor NexGen-Hybrid2.5 cubic feetDrolet Heat Commander3.6 cubic feet
Drolet Escape 18002.4 cubic feetKuuma Vapor-Fire 1003.9 cubic feet
Hearthstone Heritage2.2 cubic feetUS Stove Hot Blast HB15203.95 cubic feet

The smallest wood furnace firebox is larger than the largest wood stove firebox. But what’s interesting is that despite being able to accommodate more firewood, wood furnaces have slightly shorter burn times than wood stoves.

Why is that?

Think back to the heat output numbers. Remember, wood furnaces put out at least double the heat of wood stoves in about the same amount of time. This is due to the combination of a larger firebox and the furnace’s blower system, a system that wood stoves don’t utilize.

Should You Get a Wood Burning Furnace or a Wood Stove?

Stoves and furnaces both burn wood, but the way they burn it and deliver it differs quite a bit. By now, you should understand how much heat each appliance delivers, the area that the heat covers, how long the wood burns, and how much space is available in the firebox.

But which wood heating appliance should you get? It’s an important question. After all, this purchase will potentially set you back thousands of dollars, and you don’t want to make the wrong choice.

If you’re looking to heat a single room or a small house, a wood stove is probably right for you. These areas don’t need nearly as much heat in terms of BTUs, and a small, simple stove will get the job done well.

If you’re looking to heat an entire home that’s 2,000 square feet or more, though, you can’t beat the power and heat delivery of a wood furnace. They connect to your ductwork just like a gas furnace and are capable of delivering just as much heat.

If you’re leaning toward a wood furnace, it’d be wise to start narrowing down your options. We’ve compared our own Fire Chief FC1000E to the US Stove Hot Blast HB1520 to help you get started on your way to finding the perfect home heating solution.

Fire Chief FC1000E vs. Hot Blast HB1520 CTA
A raccoon looking out of the entrance created by a broken soffit on a home with white siding

Everything You Need to Know about Soffit Vent Covers

Wildlife is always on the lookout for shelter. Unfortunately for homeowners in both urban and suburban environments alike, the shelter these critters find is often located inside of homes.

Vents are particularly vulnerable to animal intrusion. Venting exists to allow necessary airflow inside of a home, and the openings that promote this ventilation are usually partly covered at best (and totally exposed at worst). And once a squirrel or a bird sets up shop, they won’t want to leave.

There are many kinds of exploitable vents on a home, but one of the most overlooked are soffit vents. These vents are located under the house’s eave, and if they aren’t covered properly, animals and insects alike can set up camp and cause thousands of dollars in damage.

At HY-C, we make soffit vent covers under our HY-GUARD EXCLUSION brand to keep homeowners’ soffits and soffit vents protected. And in this guide, we’re going to cover everything you need to know about soffit vent covers.

From the kinds of animals they exclude to which sizes they come in, by the time you’re finished here, you’ll know everything you need to know about soffit vent covers. From there, you can decide if you want to add some to your home to help keep animals out for good.

What Are Soffit Vent Covers?

A white soffit vent cover installed over a soffit vent

When contractors build a home, they don’t just leave vents uncovered. Most vents are manufactured with some kind of built-in cover, and even if they aren’t, contractors will install some kind of aftermarket screen or guard over the vent.

The problem is that both the covers that come with the vents and most aftermarket solutions are almost always made of aluminum or plastic. These materials are deterrents to animals, but given enough time, critters will chew through and bypass them with ease.

Dedicated soffit vent covers, on the other hand, are made from steel. They can be installed over exposed vents or over existing covers to provide an additional layer of protection against wildlife intrusion.

Which Animals do Soffit Vent Covers Keep Out?

A squirrel on a roof top overlooking the fascia of a home

Animals are crafty. They have claws and muscles that allow them to climb toward and get into nooks and crannies that most homeowners may not expect.

While not every critter is dextrous enough to navigate their way into a soffit vent, experienced wildlife control operators have seen enough in the field to narrow down a list of usual suspects. Some of the most common soffit vent invaders include:

  • Raccoons
  • Squirrels
  • Bats
  • Birds

Once a critter gets into your soffit, it can make its way into other parts of your home, too. From a soffit vent, an animal can access your attic, the inside of your walls, or even your actual living space.

A simple, relatively inexpensive soffit vent cover can stop the invasion before it even starts.

Soffit Vent Cover Sizes, Materials, and Colors

A steel, black, and white HY-GUARD EXCLUSION soffit vent cover stacked on top of each other and fanned out against a white background

At HY-C, we make our soffit vent covers in three different colors to match the aesthetics of most homes in the country. We make white soffit vent covers, black soffit vent covers, and gray soffit vent covers. The covers are paintable, too, accommodating any additional color you’d like.

The frames of our soffit vent covers are made from a single piece of laser-cut, galvanized steel. A sheet of 18-gauge, ⅜” mesh is welded onto the frames. The frames themselves measure 4 inches by 16 inches. We also offer covers that measure 4 inches by 50 inches (in white only).

How to Install Soffit Vent Covers

While the installation of wildlife exclusion devices is better left to professionals, we understand that some homeowners are more DIY-inclined than others. Thankfully, soffit vent covers aren’t terribly difficult to install. In fact, as long as you have a drill, the toughest part is accessing the vent.

Our soffit vent covers come with six pre-drilled holes in the frame. Be sure that your cover fits over the vent and covers the entire opening. When you screw the vent cover into place, ensure there are no gaps between the cover and the soffit itself — animals will exploit even the smallest openings.

Do You Need Soffit Vent Covers?

Keeping wildlife out of your home’s vulnerable entry points is a constant battle, and soffit vents are no exception. By now, you know how these covers work, what they’re made of, how to install them, and even which colors they’re available in.

But should you get some soffit vent covers for your home? That depends.

Some houses don’t even have soffit vents. If that’s the case for your home, obviously soffit vent covers aren’t for you.

Even if your home does have soffit vents, they may already be covered with the low-grade plastic or aluminum covers we mentioned earlier. For some, that protection may provide enough peace of mind. Animals can easily bypass these barriers, but it’s also true that some homeowners rely only on this basic level of protection for years and never experience problems.

A lot of it depends on what critters are in your area and how prevalent they are. If your neighbors have had trouble with squirrels and birds, you may want to fortify your soffits. If you often see bats out at night, adding a steel soffit screen may help you sleep better at night.

The truth of the matter is that soffit vent covers are the strongest, most reliable animal exclusion method for soffit vents. They also come at a price. And if you’re okay with paying that price, you’ll be left with nothing less than the best animal exclusion protection available.

How to Deal with an Animal in Your Attic CTA
A Liberty Foundry Co. fireback installed in a burning fireplace with a screen in front of it

Everything You Need to Know about Fireplace Firebacks

Fireplaces are great for adding a bit of extra warmth and ambiance to your home. As you use your fireplace over time, though, it’s presented with two constant challenges:

  1. Loss of efficiency
  2. Loss of structural integrity

Ash, soot, and creosote buildup can cause a fireplace to become less efficient. As you burn wood over time, more and more heat ends up dissipating up your flue pipe instead of into your home.

At the same time, most fireplaces are made of brick. When subject to large temperature fluctuations over years of use, this chimney brick can crack and crumble, leading to expensive repairs.

A fireback can help to mitigate both of these problems, resulting in a longer-lasting fireplace and chimney system that maintains its heating efficiency.

But how do these firebacks work? How do they preserve the structure and function of your fireplace? And if you decide to get one, which size should you get?

We manufacture thousands of firebacks a year at HY-C, and in this guide, we’ll answer all those questions and more for you. We’re going to cover everything you need to know about firebacks.

By the time you’re finished here, you’ll understand what a fireback is, how they work, what size you’ll need, and even how to install one in your fireplace.

What is a Fireback?

While there are many types of antique firebacks with intricate designs, HY-C’s Liberty Foundry Co. firebacks are straightforward and functional. At their core, they’re a simple sheet of metal on a stand. They sit against the back wall of your firebox (behind your fireplace grate) and they serve two purposes:

  1. To maintain the integrity of your brick firebox
  2. To reflect heat back into your home

The fireback acts as a shield, insulating the brick walls of your firebox from the heat of the burning logs on the fireplace grate. A well-made fireback can protect against up to ⅓ of the heat emanating from a fire, resulting in a longer-lasting firebox that’s less prone to damage.

Firebacks also deflect radiated heat back into your home. Instead of contacting the brick firebox and traveling up the chimney flue, heat that touches the fireback makes its way out of the firebox and into the house rather than up the flue.

This is largely due to the material from which the fireback is made.

Cast Iron Firebacks vs. Stainless Steel Firebacks

While we’re no stranger to cast iron hearth supplies at HY-C, all of our firebacks are made out of 14 gauge stainless steel rather than cast iron. The reason for this comes down to a few differences in the properties of both metals.

While stainless steel and cast iron are exceptionally durable, cast iron is more durable than stainless steel. This means that cast iron firebacks tend to offer better protection for the firebox than stainless steel firebacks. They are, however, more expensive as a result.

Stainless steel, while less durable than cast iron, is still durable enough to function well as a fireback material. It’s also cheaper, allowing us to price our firebacks very competitively. Stainless steel firebacks reflect heat better, too — but they don’t protect fireboxes quite as well as cast iron.

Fireback Sizes

Ten Liberty Foundry Co. firebacks — five black on the top and five stainless steel on the bottom — all arranged from smallest to largest size against a white background

Different manufacturers make their firebacks in different sizes. At HY-C, we have 5 sizes of firebacks that we make. We settled on those 5 sizes based on the common dimensions of fireplaces across the country.

Each size is available either in untreated stainless steel or with a black powder coat finish. Here’s a look at the sizes we offer (in inches):

  • 15” x 15”
  • 16” x 18”
  • 20” x 20”
  • 24” x 24”
  • 27” x 27”

To find the right size fireback for your fireplace, measure the length and height of the back wall of your firebox. Choose the fireback size that covers the most surface area without obstructing your flue or encroaching on your fireplace grate.

Here’s a quick look at our five fireback sizes in terms of percentage manufactured (to give you an idea of which sizes are used most, least, and everything in between):

  • The 15” x 15” size makes up 15.88% of the firebacks we manufacture
  • The 16” x 18” size makes up 32.43% of the firebacks we manufacture
  • The 20” x 20” size makes up 21.23% of the firebacks we manufacture
  • The 24” x 24” size makes up 18.98% of the firebacks we manufacture
  • The 27” x 27” size makes up 11.48% of the firebacks we manufacture

How to Install a Fireback

A stainless steel Liberty Foundry Co. fireback installed in a fireplace behind a grate full of logs

Installing a Liberty Foundry Co. fireback takes just four simple steps.

To start, remove everything from your fireplace. Take out (and clean) your fireplace grate, scoop out any ash and charred wood, and clean the walls of your firebox, while you’re at it.

Next, place the two slotted bases of the fireback into your fireplace close to the back wall of the firebox. The slots in the bases are designed to allow you to place the fireback in one of three positions:

  1. Straight up (90°)
  2. Leaning away from the back wall of the fireplace (65°)
  3. Leaning toward the back wall of the fireplace (65°)
A close-up of the base of a Liberty Foundry Co. fireback demonstrating the three angled slots
The slots in the base of a Liberty Foundry Co. fireback allow you to position the fireback in one of three positions

The direction you’d like the fireback to face depends largely on the design of your fireplace and firebox. Experiment with all three positions as you use your fireplace to see which delivers the most heat into your home.

After you’ve decided on the position of your fireback, simply insert it into the appropriate slots in the bases. Push the bases and the fireback as close to the back wall of the fireplace as possible.

Finally, put back any accessories, screens, or grates. Now your fireback is installed and your fireplace is ready to use!

Should You Get a Fireback?

Before now, you may not have even heard of firebacks, let alone understood what they are and how they work.

At this point, though, you should have a good idea of why you may need a fireback, how they enhance your wood burning experience, how to find the right size, and even how to install one in your own fireplace.

The question remains, though — should you get a fireback?

Frankly, a fireback is an accessory that is not entirely necessary. You can enjoy your fireplace without one, and — depending on how often you burn wood — your fireplace may never experience damage, even without a fireback.

But if you want to increase the efficiency of your fireplace while protecting it from potential damage that comes with repeated use, a fireback is an easy, relatively inexpensive solution.

And while there are plenty of options out there, Liberty Foundry Co.’s stainless steel firebacks are one of the most cost-effective options you can find. Just find your size, install it properly, and experience maximum efficiency and peace of mind.

A shot of the HY-C company factory floor's custom chimney cap area

What is it Like to Work in Production at HY-C?

At HY-C, we manufacture a lot of metal products: chimney caps, roof vent guards, wood burning furnaces, stove boards, and more. We began manufacturing chimney caps in 1947, and our product selection has only grown over the decades.

Because 85% of our products are made in the USA (in St. Louis, Missouri), our production employees are the heart and soul of everything we do. Without their years of expertise and hours of hard work, our company wouldn’t exist.

If you’re reading this, you probably have some interest in a production job at HY-C. Maybe you’re thinking of applying, or maybe you’ve already begun speaking with our Human Resources team. No matter where you are in the process, you probably have some questions, like:

  • What is this job, anyway?
  • What are the hours like?
  • What are the people and the company like?

We want to help answer those questions for you so you can better understand the job and whether or not it’s a good fit for you. So we’re going to take you through what it’s like to be a HY-C production employee, and we’ll even provide some insights from our current staff.

By the time you’re done here, you’ll have a good sense of what it’s like to work in the HY-C factory. From there, you’ll be equipped to decide if the job is right for you.

Working Hours

A typical day in the HY-C factory starts at 6 a.m. At that time, the machines turn on, and the production lines start getting to work. The team takes a 15-minute break at 9 a.m., and then they finish up their morning tasks.

The group likes to take lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 12:15 p.m. After lunch, everybody works into the early afternoon until 2:20 p.m. At that time, the team starts cleaning up their stations for the evening. The work day ends at 2:30 p.m.

The Production Lines

The HY-C chimney cap production line decorated for Christmas with two female factory employees at work

Our factory has a few different manufacturing lines that make our selection of products. One of the most important lines is where we produce our chimney caps. HY-C makes about 85% of the country’s chimney caps, so we have a lot of stations focused on them, including:

  • The press room, where the hoods of the chimney caps are molded and pressed
  • The weld line, where the base, mesh, and hoods of the caps are welded together
  • The paint line, where chimney caps are painted with a black powder coating
  • The custom line, where custom-made chimney caps are assembled

We also have a furnace line where we manufacture our Fire Chief wood burning furnaces, and a stove board line where we manufacture our stove boards. Finally, the packaging line boxes up finished goods, making sure to include any instructions or hardware that go with each product.

What is the Day-to-Day Like?

To give you the best sense of what it’s like to work on the HY-C production line, we spoke with three HY-C employees:

  • Lupe, who works on the packaging line
  • Mark, who runs the paint line
  • John, who runs the weld line (and other chimney cap processes)

Packaging

Lupe, a HY-C factory employee, folding boxes together on the packaging line

Lupe has been with HY-C for 16 years now. She explained that to work on the packaging line, you need to know the ins and outs of every product that we make. You have to learn how things get packaged, what they get packaged with, and how to stack packaged products properly.

Lupe’s done a lot here during her time at HY-C. She started on the paint line, then worked in the press room, then tried the welding line for a bit. She finally ended up in packaging where she’s been a vital member for years. She told us that her story is pretty typical of a HY-C plant employee:

“You do a little of everything here. People get shuffled around a lot, so you get to try a lot of things. They make sure there’s always something for you to do.”

The Paint Line

Black galvanized chimney caps going through the HY-C paint line on the factory floor

Finished caps that need to be painted make their way from the weld line to the paint line. Mark (who has run the paint line for 12 years now) told us that his main priority is to make sure his people have everything they need. He said that, on a normal day, the team expects to paint about 2,500 chimney caps.

Mark’s group consists of about seven people:

  • Someone who hangs the caps
  • Someone who paints them
  • Two people who take painted caps off the line
  • Someone who stacks the finished caps
  • Someone who labels them
  • Someone who packages them

He says that the pace on the paint line is “comfortably fast,” but that it’s also relentless. The paint line sets the pace, and it doesn’t slow down.

“You’ll be a little overwhelmed at first. You’ve got to be ready. And what you do affects everyone around you. But once you get into it and start to build muscle memory, you’ll do great.”

The Weld Line

A female factory employee welding HY-C chimney caps on the factory machinery

The weld line is the heart of the HY-C factory, and John oversees it all. John is HY-C’s longest-tenured employee — he’s been here for over 40 years. Some of his people on the weld line have been here for as long as 15 years.

Workers on the weld line bend the base of each chimney cap and weld the corners in place. Next, they weld the wire mesh to the base. Finally, they attach the hood to the mesh to finish the chimney cap.

When it comes to hiring new people for the weld line, John likes to ease people into the job. He likes to assign various tasks to see where people excel. Once he finds out what someone does well, he makes sure they get to keep doing it.

“You get a basic training and then go from there,” John told us. “If you show me you can do it, you’ll have a job.”

What is the HY-C Culture Like?

The HY-C company leadership team and factory staff pose for a picture together on the plant floor. Everybody is wearing matching blue HY-C shirts.

The culture in the HY-C factory is characterized by a few unique aspects. We’re a fourth-generation, family-owned company, and you can feel that sense of family in the factory. The plant floor has strong Hispanic roots, too: most factory employees speak Spanish, and a few speak both Spanish and English.

“It’s just like a family back here,” Lupe told us. “You feel like you’re coming home every day.”

Mark felt similarly.

“HY-C is a great company to work for because it has a family atmosphere. We look out for one another. And once you’re in, you’re in.”

We asked Mark about the work culture in the factory.

“I’ve worked at other companies, and the mentality there is to see how little you can do without getting fired. HY-C is not like that at all. We have a lot of really good, hard-working people here who care about family and care about each other.”

We also asked Mark if there was anything he wanted prospective employees to know about HY-C.

“If you’re new, you’re about to meet some really good people who are willing to help you learn your job.”

Do You See Yourself at HY-C?

Hopefully at this point, you have some sense of what it’s like to work in production at HY-C. Our people work hard, they know their craft, and they care deeply for each other. We’ve been fortunate to have many people call HY-C home for 20, 30, and even 40 years.

The environment can be demanding at times, but you’ll get to learn plenty. You’ll get to find what you’re good at and do it as well as you can, and make a few great friends while you’re at it.

If you’re interested in a production job at HY-C and you think you’d be a good fit based on what you’ve read here, be sure to visit our careers page. There’s a lot of work to do, and we need your help to get it done.

A black wood stove with a fire burning inside sitting atop a wood grain HY-C stove board against a white background

Four Reasons You Should Carry Stove Boards in Your Store

There are dozens and dozens of wood, gas, and pellet stove models out there, but they all have one thing in common: they require non-combustible ember and thermal protection for their surrounding walls and floors. This protection is vital as it helps prevent accidental house fires.

One of the best ways to provide this protection is by way of a stove board — a mineral fiber board wrapped in steel that insulates combustible surfaces from embers and flames.

As a manufacturer who produces thousands of stove boards every year, we hear a lot of questions about them from retailers and distribution partners:

  • Should I carry stove boards in my store?
  • How will they help my sales numbers?
  • If I decide to carry them, how should I display them?

We want to help answer those questions — and more — for you. In this guide, we’re going to cover four reasons why you should add stove boards to your product offering.

By the time you’re finished here, you’ll understand what stove boards are, how they work, which sizes and colors are available, and even tried-and-tested stove board retail display methods.

1. They’re Easy Add-on Sales

If you carry gas, pellet, or wood stoves in your store, selling stove boards is a no-brainer. It’s sort of like selling ammo at a gun store: one will greatly help to sell the other.

Most heating appliances come with suggested clearance-to-combustibles measurements, or the distances the appliances should be kept from flammable materials. Stoves tend to be installed too close to combustibles (like carpet, drywall, or wood floors) simply because there’s no viable place to put them otherwise.

Stove boards help these stoves meet their manufacturers’ clearance-to-combustibles requirements. They allow stoves to be installed anywhere while still meeting required ember and insulation protection guidelines.

They also offer a sense of safety and security for the appliance owner. Sure, a stove board adds a bit of money to the bill of a wood stove purchase. But it also greatly mitigates the risk of a house fire.

Simply put, anyone buying a wood stove should also be walking out of the store with a stove board.

2. They’re UL-Approved

There are two types of stove boards out there:

  • Type 1
  • Type 2

Type 1 stove boards are rated for ember and scratch protection, but they are not UL-approved by the Underwriters Laboratories, a global safety science company that tests a wide array of products for a range of safety ratings. These stove boards are not rated for thermal protection.

Type 2 stove boards, on the other hand, are UL-approved. They can be used as hearth extenders, wall shields, and under additional heating appliances (like kerosene, gas, and electric heaters).

At HY-C, we offer both type 1 and type 2 stove boards, allowing us to provide a spectrum of protection for all kinds of heating products.

3. There are Plenty of Size and Color Options

A gray slate stove board, a wood grain stove board, and a black stove board stacked on each other and staggered against a white background

Every heating appliance installation is different. Different stoves have different clearance-to-combustibles measurements, and these measurements may also change due to local codes.

That’s why we offer stove boards in a variety of sizes: to accommodate a broad range of clearance-to-combustibles requirements. We even manufacture our boards in three different colors (black, slate, and wood grain) to match the aesthetics of your customers’ homes.

The following chart contains our standard stove board sizes (in inches) for each color, as well as the retail weight of each board:

BlackSlateBrownWeight (lbs)
48″ x 18″48″ x 18″9
32″ x 28″32″ x 28″32″ x 28″11
42″ x 32″42″ x 32″42″ x 32″16
36″ x 36″36″ x 36″36″ x 36″15
48″ x 36″48″ x 36″48″ x 36″19
52″ x 36″52″ x 36″52″ x 36″21
48″ x 40″25
48″ x 48″31

4. They Don’t Take up Much Space (if They’re Displayed Well)

At HY-C, we work with our retail partners as often as possible not only to suggest best practices for displaying the products we manufacture, but also to design the products themselves to be easy to display.

Of course, the final decision is always up to you, the retailer. But regarding stove boards, we’ve found that a floor rack is the best possible display method for a few reasons:

  1. It offers the most economical use of space while still clearly displaying the product
  2. It frees up shelf space that can be used for other products
  3. It allows retailers to place the boards near their selection of wood stoves
  4. It’s offers the easiest way for a customer to pick up their board to bring to the register
A rack of stove boards on a retail floor shown from two different angles (the front and the side)

The racks themselves are relatively straightforward, inexpensive, and easy to manufacture. They can also accommodate multiple board sizes in one location much more efficiently.

We’ve found that stove boards don’t work nearly as well on shelves simply because of the demanding amount of width they require:

Stove boards being displayed in their boxes on a retail shelf

We know retailers are constantly fighting for every square inch of floor space to streamline and enhance their product selection. We know stove boards are big, so we like to work with our partners to make displaying them in their stores as easy as possible.

Adding Stove Boards to Your Product Selection

Stove boards may not be the most flashy, exciting product, but what they lack in panache, they make up for in utility and safety. Type 2 boards are UL-approved, available in plenty of sizes and colors to meet your customers’ needs, and are all but required with every wood stove purchase.

Customers nowadays are smart and safety-conscious. If they’re committed to purchasing a wood stove (and all the know-how and hard work that comes with owning one), they’ll be willing to spend a few extra bucks to make sure that stove operates as safely as possible.

If you’re interested in adding stove boards to your product repertoire, be sure to get in touch with our sales team. They’ll be happy to work with you to help find the right selection of boards that will best fill the needs of the customers in your area.

A round, stainless steel chimney cap installed on a round flue tile against a white background

Everything You Need to Know about Round Chimney Caps

A chimney cap is a vital addition to any home with a fireplace. These protective covers help to keep rain out of your firebox and wildlife out of your chimney (and the rest of your home, too).

Chimney caps all basically fit into one of two categories: single-flue chimney caps that cover just one flue, and multi-flue chimney caps that cover two (or more) flues.

In the single-flue category, chimney caps can come in one of three shapes:

  • Square caps
  • Rectangular caps
  • Round caps

While there’s much to be said about each category and shape, in this guide, we’re going to focus on round chimney caps. At HY-C, we’ve manufactured tens of thousands of round chimney caps over the past few years, and we want to share what we know with you.

From the different types of round chimney caps to the materials they’re made from and the sizes they come in, there’s a lot to learn.

By the time you’re finished here, you’ll know which kind of round chimney cap is best for you, what material options you have, and what size you should get.

Round Chimney Cap Materials

A black galvanized round chimney cap next to a stainless steel round chimney cap of the same size against a white background

The best place to start when considering a round chimney cap is the material from which the cap is made. Different types of metal have different properties and work better in certain environments.

At HY-C, we make our round chimney caps from two types of steel:

  • Galvanized steel (with a black powder coat)
  • Stainless steel

In terms of price, black galvanized steel caps simply can’t be beat. They offer the best bang for your buck while providing an excellent level of protection. Their main drawback is that they’re susceptible to rust and corrosion in coastal environments due to high concentrations of saltwater.

On the other hand, stainless steel caps offer maximum protection and long term durability. They stand up exceptionally well against corrosion and can withstand weather and wildlife with ease. You’ll pay a higher price for this premium level of protection, though.

There is a third round chimney cap material to be aware of: copper. Copper caps are very expensive, but they’re also aesthetically appealing. We do offer round chimney caps in copper, but they’re rare. We produce them at a rate of less than one per year.

Round Chimney Cap Sizes

Thumbnail-style images of five different sized stainless steel round chimney caps (3 on the top row, two on the bottom) all against a white background

Not all round flue pipes are created equally. Different flues come in different sizes, and it’s important to find the correctly sized chimney cap for your flue.

We make the diameters of our round chimney caps in two-inch increments (eight inches, ten inches, twelve inches, etc.). Each size is designed to fit a flue pipe either one half-inch bigger or smaller than the size of the cap (i.e., an 8” cap will fit flue pipes from 7.5” to 8.5”).

The following table provides an overview of the round chimney cap sizes we manufacture and the flue diameter ranges they fit:

Cap DiameterFits a Flue with a Diameter Between…
6 inches5.5 inches to 6.5 inches
8 inches7.5 inches to 8.5 inches
10 inches9.5 inches to 10.5 inches
12 inches11.5 inches to 12.5 inches
14 inches13.5 inches to 14.5 inches
16 inches15.5 inches to 16.5 inches
18 inches17.5 inches to 18.5 inches

So, which size will you need?

It’s difficult to tell without measuring your chimney flue. What we can do, though, is offer some of the most popular sizes of round chimney caps we produce in terms of percentages:

Cap DiameterPercentage Manufactured by HY-C
10 inches31.42%
12 inches19.58%
14 inches19.56%
8 inches9.91%
16 inches6.28%
6 inches3.38%
18 inches2.95%

The top seven sizes account for over 93% of the round chimney caps we make. The top three sizes — 10 inches, 12 inches, and 14 inches — account for over 70%.

If you have a round chimney flue, there’s a very good chance it will accommodate one of these three sizes. Even still, measuring your flue tile is still the best way to ensure you find the right cap size.

Round Chimney Cap Types

From left to right: a bolt-on round stainless steel chimney cap, a clamp-on round stainless steel chimney cap, and a slip-in round stainless steel chimney cap

After you’ve decided on a material and found the right size, one of the final things to consider about round chimney caps is which type to buy. “Type” essentially means “attachment style”, or the way the cap attaches to the flue pipe.

Round chimney caps come in three different types:

  • Bolt-on
  • Clamp-on
  • Slip-in

Bolt-on chimney caps are exactly what they sound like: they bolt onto the flue tile. We provide four bolts with all of our bolt-on chimney caps for ease of installation.

Clamp-on chimney caps come with a gear-drawn clamp around the base of the cap. To install one, you just slide the cap over the flue tile and tighten the clamp.

Slip-in chimney caps are perhaps the easiest to install. They come with four legs that slide into the flue tile. The legs bend under tension when inserted into the flue, and this tension holds them in place.

So, which type should you get?

Sometimes size determines which type you should (or even can) buy. Each type of cap comes in a different range of sizes. Make sure the type you’re interested in comes in a size that will fit your flue.

The other aspect to consider is how secure each attachment type is. Bolt-on caps are the most secure, while slip-in caps are the least secure. Clamp-on caps lie somewhere in between.

Should You Get a Round Chimney Cap?

You may not have realized just how much goes into choosing a round chimney cap. Sizes, materials, attachment types — there’s an endless number of combinations available, and finding the right cap for your flue can be overwhelming.

If you have a round chimney flue and it’s currently uncovered, we strongly encourage you to find a cap for it as quickly as possible. It will protect your fireplace from weather and storm damage and it will keep curious critters out of your home.

From there, it’s a matter of choosing the right material, finding the right size, and choosing the right attachment type. But even after all that is finished, you’ll need to install the cap on your flue once you buy it.

Our chimney cap installation guide covers seven different styles of chimney caps (including a few round caps). After you’ve found the right round chimney cap, use the installation guide to help finish the job.

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A chimney chase cover on top of a prefabricated chimney with white siding against a white background

A Comprehensive Guide to Chimney Chase Covers

Fireplaces are great for warming your home or creating some nice ambiance. But if they aren’t built with adequate protection, they can become an easy entry point for rain, snow, and even local animals like squirrels and raccoons to cause damage.

Thankfully, there are plenty of barriers to help keep these nuisances out of your chimney. One of them that proves popular (especially on newer homes) is the chimney chase cover.

But what are these covers, anyway? What are they made of? And how do you know which size to get?

At HY-C, we’ve manufactured hundreds of chimney chase covers in the past few years, and we want to share what we know with you.

In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about chimney chase covers. By the time you’re finished, you’ll know what they are, whether or not you need one on your chimney, and how to measure for a chase cover to ensure you get the right size.

What Is a Chimney Chase Cover?

A chase cover is a pan-like metal sheet with a hole (or multiple holes) cut out of it. Chase covers usually adorn prefabricated chimneys on newer homes. These chimneys come with a metal chimney pipe that starts above the firebox, goes up through the chimney, and comes out of a hole in the chase cover.

The job of a chimney chase cover is to keep weather and wildlife out of a chimney. They act as a kind of cap for the body of a prefabricated chimney, preventing rain from leaking in or critters from building their nests in your chimney.

Differences between a Chimney Cap and a Chimney Chase Cover

A masonry chimney with a cap on its clay flue pipe next to a prefabricated chimney with a chase cover, both against a white background

In a traditional brick chimney, the job of a chase cover is performed by the chimney crown. The crown is made from concrete and rests over the top layer of brick. A clay flue pipe (or multiple clay flue pipes) protrude from the crown, and a chimney cap covers the clay flue.

A prefabricated chimney uses a chase cover to protect most of the surface area of the chimney. A circular cap is put in place over the metal chimney pipe and operates similarly to a masonry chimney cap. Finally, a storm collar is installed where the chimney cap and chase cover meet to seal any remaining gaps.

What Are Chimney Chase Covers Made Of?

Chase covers are made primarily of two types of metal:

  • Galvanneal
  • Stainless steel

Galvanneal is a good chase cover cap material in the mid to short term. It resists weather and corrosion very well, but it is eventually susceptible to rust. A rusty chase cover will crack, allowing rainwater to leak into the chimney, potentially causing more damage.

Stainless steel, on the other hand, is a much more durable chimney chase cover material. It’s dense, strong, and highly resistant to rust and other types of corrosion. It’s especially useful in coastal areas as it’s resistant to abrasion from saltwater.

At HY-C, around 15% of the chase covers we make are made from 22-gauge galvanneal. The other 85% are made from the longer-lasting (albeit more expensive) 22-gauge 304 stainless steel.

What Sizes do Chimney Chase Covers Come In?

This is a tough question to answer. While chimney caps come in common, stock sizes, chase cover sizes vary widely. Most chase covers are special-made to fit prefabricated chimneys that themselves tend not to come in common, consistent sizes.

That said, of the chase covers we’ve made at HY-C, a not-insignificant amount of them measure either 27” x 27” or 35” x 35”.

Even with that in mind, it’s likely that you’ll have to measure your chimney to find the correct chase cover size for your home.

How to Measure a Chimney Chase Cover

You can’t measure a chimney chase cover without first knowing the number of holes you’ll need in the cover (i.e., the number of flue pipes that need to fit into it). Typically, a chase cover will have either one, two, or three holes in it. We’ve found that:

  • 89% of chase covers will need 1 hole
  • 9% of chase covers will need 2 holes
  • 2% of chase covers will need 3 holes

Start by checking your chimney for the number of metal flue pipes it has. One flue pipe will necessitate one hole, two flue pipes will necessitate two holes, etc.

From there, you’ll need to take a few measurements:

A guide demonstrating how to measure a single-hole chimney chase cover
  1. The length of your chimney
  2. The width of your chimney
  3. The distance between all four sides of your chimney and the edge of the flue pipe

These measurements will help the manufacturer tailor-make a chase cover that will fit your chimney (and its flue pipe(s)) perfectly. The process is very similar for chase caps with two holes. Just measure:

A guide demonstrating how to measure a double-hole chimney chase cover
  1. The length of your chimney
  2. The width of your chimney
  3. The distance between all four sides of your chimney and the edge of flue pipe 1
  4. The distance between all four sides of your chimney and the edge of flue pipe 2

The last thing to consider is the height of the chase cover’s skirt:

A diagram indicating how to find the height of the skirt of a chimney chase cover

The skirt is the metal flange that holds the cover snuggly to the chimney. It needs to be long enough to cover all four edges of the chimney while also providing enough surface area for bolts to penetrate the skirt and attach to the chimney securely.

Most chase cover skirts will measure two, three, or four inches in height. Of the covers we’ve manufactured through the years, we’ve found that:

  • 4% of chase covers have a 2” skirt
  • 68% of chase covers have a 3” skirt
  • 28% of chase covers have a 4” skirt

Three inches is essentially the industry standard for chase cover skirts and will work well in the majority of cases.

Do You Need a Chimney Chase Cover?

It should be clear by now that there’s a lot involved in finding the right chase cover. From materials to sizes and the right number of holes, there are a lot of factors to consider.

But what does this mean for you? Do you need a chase cover on your chimney?

If you have a masonry chimney with a crown, the answer is no — the crown does the work of the chase cover (but you should make sure your clay flue has a chimney cap). If you have a newer prefabricated chimney, though, a new cover may be in the cards.

In most cases, people in need of a new chase cap are looking to replace their old one. If yours is rusty, loose, or otherwise damaged, replacing it as quickly as possible can save you from massive repair bills caused by water or wildlife damage.

You can utilize the HY-C chase cover order form to find and order the perfect chase cover for your chimney. But whether you buy a chase cover from us or another manufacturer, the most important thing is to keep your chimney covered, your flue watertight, and your home secure.

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A SootEater cleaning tool attached to a drill sitting on a hearth

Gardus SootEater Chimney Cleaning Kit: An Honest Review

“Chimney sweep” is a job that goes back hundreds of years and will probably continue to be around for hundreds more. As long as homeowners have wood burning appliances like fireplaces or stoves in their homes, they’ll need someone to clean the flue pipes.

But what if you could easily clean your own chimney with professional-level results?

That’s what SootEater offers. It’s a rotary chimney cleaning system by Gardus (a HY-C company) that allows you to clean your own chimney from the ground up.

So, what comes with a SootEater kit? What are its pros and cons, and should you get one for yourself?

That’s what we’ll cover in this guide. By the time you’re finished here, you’ll understand what SootEater is, how it works, what comes in its kit, and whether or not this chimney cleaning tool will work well for your wood burning appliance.

And while we manufacture this item, we’re going to remain as objective as possible in this guide. The goal is not simply to sell a SootEater to everyone who reads this piece. Rather, the goal is to help you figure out if SootEater is a good fit for you.

What Is SootEater?

Like our other Gardus tools (i.e. SpinAway and GutterSweep), SootEater is a rotary cleaning tool. It’s powered by a corded or battery-operated drill, and it uses the torque that the drill creates to clean the inside of your flue tile and remove soot and creosote buildup.

SootEater utilizes polypropylene rods that connect via button links to extend all the way up a chimney flue. A whip head with flexible strands scours the side of the flue tile, knocking off ash, soot, and creosote down into your firebox.

What’s Included in the SootEater Kit?

The entire contents of a SootEater chimney cleaning kit against a white background

The contents included in the SootEater kit are fairly straightforward:

  • 6 flexible three-feet-long polypropylene rods
  • 1 whip head
  • 1 drill adapter
  • 1 rod separator tool
  • 1 52” x 48” plastic cover

It’s important to note that a drill is not included with the SootEater. If you need more extension rods, they’re available to purchase separately. Replacement whip heads are also available separately.

Three Pros of SootEater

A man inserting a SootEater chimney cleaning whip head into an open fireplace

1. It Helps Save Money

Chimney sweeps tend to charge a pretty penny for their work. On average, it costs between $100 and $400 to have your chimney professionally cleaned by a chimney sweep. Considering you should clean your chimney once a year, those costs add up quickly.

SootEater, on the other hand, averages around $65 at retail (depending on where you buy one). Considering you can use it year after year and a replacement whip head only costs around $20, it isn’t hard to see how SootEater can save a lot of money on chimney cleaning costs.

2. It Increases the Safety and Efficiency of Your Chimney

There are a lot of downsides to a dirty chimney. Creosote in particular is highly flammable, and if it’s left to build up, it can cause a fire in your flue. SootEater sweeps away creosote buildup, making for a much safer wood burning experience.

A clean chimney can also help to improve the efficiency of your fireplace or stove. Soot and creosote can block up a flue, preventing a good draft and hampering your fire. Cleaning your chimney with SootEater helps create a better draft and a more efficient fire.

3. It’s (almost) Universal

Whether you have a stove or a fireplace, your chimney cleaning tool needs to be the right size to clean every nook and cranny of your flue. Whether your flue is circular, rectangular, or square, SootEater is designed to clean a wide range of flue sizes:

  • Circular flues: 5” to 18”
  • Rectangular flues: up to 8” x 12”
  • Square flues: up to 12” x 12”

SootEater isn’t necessarily completely universal, but its whip head is designed to clean about 98% of the flue tile sizes in homes across the country.

Three Cons of SootEater

A SootEater rotary cleaning tool installed on a drill and sitting in front of an open fireplace

1. It Requires a Drill

One of SootEater’s biggest strengths may actually be one of its biggest weaknesses to some homeowners. Not everyone owns a drill, and if you don’t already have one, buying a SootEater won’t do you much good.

Out of our entire Gardus line, SootEater is probably the most likely to work well with a corded drill (considering it’s used indoors, likely near an outlet).

But if you have a battery-powered drill, be wary that — depending on how long you use it — SootEater could drain the battery, stopping your cleaning job dead in its tracks.

2. Its Whip Head Needs Regular Replacing

If you’ve ever used a string trimmer (also called a “weed eater”), you know that the trimmer string wears down pretty quickly. Eventually the string runs out, and you need to replace it with a new spool.

SootEater works much the same way. After a few uses, the whip head may wear down to the point where it can’t contact your flue tiles anymore. At that point, you’ll need to buy a replacement whip head.

This isn’t the biggest deal, but, like a dead drill battery, a worn whip head could stop your chimney cleaning pretty abruptly. Make sure you always have a replacement head on hand.

3. It Can Be Messy

If you’ve ever cleaned ash out of your fireplace’s firebox, you know that even that process can be messy. SootEater’s whip head spins pretty wildly, and as creosote and ash fall into the firebox, they can easily fly out onto your hearth (or even into your living room).

We do offer a 52” x 48” plastic sheet to mitigate this mess, though. All you have to do is tape it over your fireplace’s firebox, insert the SootEater into it, and clean normally. The sheet will catch any soot or ash whipped up by the cleaning process.

Should You Get a SootEater?

A SootEater's whip head rotating against a gray background

Before now, you may not have even realized that there are tools out there that allow you to clean your own chimney. SootEater does just that — it contains relatively few parts, it’s easy and intuitive to use, and we’ve sold thousands of them over the past few years.

But should you get one?

That depends. If you don’t have a fireplace or wood stove, the answer is obviously “no”. If you don’t have a drill, you don’t want to make a mess, or you’re not much of a DIYer and you prefer to leave specialized cleaning tasks to the pros, SootEater may not be right for you.

But if you’re DIY-inclined and you want to save a bit of money on chimney cleaning over the course of several years, SootEater was made just for you. It’s built to stand up to years of hard use, and it will help you to keep your chimney clean, safe, and ready for each wood burning season.

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A square stainless steel chimney cap sitting on a factory floor with industrial machines in the background

Stainless Steel Chimney Caps: Everything You Need to Know

Steel is far and away the most common chimney cap material. At HY-C, we’ve made well over 1,000,000 chimney caps in the past few years, and literally 99.5% of them have been made of steel.

There are two types of steel that make up our chimney caps: galvanized steel and stainless steel. While galvanized steel is the more budget-friendly option, stainless steel is much tougher. It’s more robust, more corrosion-resistant, and it tends to stand up to weather and pests better than galvanized steel.

But what shapes and sizes do stainless steel chimney caps come in? Do they cover one flue, or are they capable of covering multiple flues? Are they customizable?

In this guide, we’re going to answer those questions and more. We’re going to cover everything you could possibly want to know about stainless steel chimney caps.

By the time you’ve read this guide, you’ll know all about the most common stainless steel chimney cap sizes and dimensions. We’ll even cover multiple customization options, all to help you find the right stainless steel cap for your chimney.

Stainless Steel Chimney Cap Sizes

Stainless steel chimney cap sizes are broken down into three groups: square, rectangular, and round. Here’s a breakdown of how many caps fit those three categories (out of all the stainless steel chimney caps we’ve manufactured in the past few years):

Stainless Steel Cap ShapePercentage Manufactured by HY-C
Square60.71%
Rectangular35.57%
Round3.72%

If you remember your high school geometry lessons, you know that all squares are rectangles, so we’ll talk about those two types together. And since square and rectangular stainless steel chimney caps make up over 96% of the caps we manufacture, we’ll cover them first.

Square and Rectangular Stainless Steel Chimney Cap Sizes

A square and rectangular stainless steel chimney cap sitting side by side against a white background

Stainless steel chimney caps are manufactured to fit specific flue pipes. Chimney flue pipes come in different lengths and widths, and we make our chimney caps to match the most common flue sizes on homes throughout the country.

When it comes to square and rectangular caps made of stainless steel, here are some of the most common sizes we produce:

Square and Rectangular Stainless Steel Chimney Cap Dimensions (inches)Percentage Manufactured by HY-C
13 x 1332.35%
9 x 930.45%
9 x 1329.05%
13 x 182.75%
9 x 181.29%

As you can see, the three most common sizes — 13 x 13, 9 x 9, and 9 x 13 — account for about 92% of all square or rectangular caps.

The entire table accounts for about 96% of all the square or rectangular stainless steel chimney caps out there. If you have a square or rectangular flue pipe, there’s a very high chance that one of these sizes will work for you.

Other, less common sizes include:

  • 12 x 12
  • 18 x 18
  • 13 x 16
  • 11 x 11
  • 15 x 15
  • 5 x 9
  • 12 x 16
  • 13 x 20

Round Stainless Steel Chimney Cap Sizes

A round stainless steel chimney cap against a white background

Not all flue tiles are square or rectangular. Some are circular, and they’re measured by the diameter of the flue tile. Round round flue tiles are a bit more varied than their cornered counterparts.

While five sizes cover most square and rectangular caps, eight sizes make up the bulk of the round stainless steel caps we make:

Round Stainless Steel Chimney Cap Diameters (inches)Percentage Manufactured by HY-C
1027.97%
1217.57%
1417.35%
810.14%
67.82%
94.31%
73.60%
133.04%

If you have a round chimney flue, there’s about a 92% chance that a stainless steel cap size in this table will fit your chimney.

Other, less common round cap diameters include:

  • 11 inches
  • 16 inches
  • 5 inches
  • 18 inches
  • 4 inches

Multi-Flue Stainless Steel Chimney Caps

A multi-flue stainless steel chimney cap installed on a chimney crown with tree limbs in the background

So far, we’ve only covered single-flue chimney caps — those that bolt directly onto one flue. Multi-flue chimney caps are a different animal. They’re made to cover two (or more) flues using just one cap.

Instead of attaching to a flue pipe, multi-flue chimney caps come with metal flanges at the bottom with pre-drilled holes. An installer uses these holes to bolt the cap directly into the chimney crown (the concrete layer that sits on top of the top row of chimney brick).

Multi-flue stainless steel chimney caps are much less common than single-flue chimney caps. About 95% of the chimney caps we make are single-flue, while the other 5% are multi-flue caps.

Still, the number of stainless steel multi-flue caps we make is well into the thousands, so they’re very much worth talking about — especially with regard to their sizes.

Stainless Steel Multi-Flue Chimney Cap Sizes

Multi-flue caps are measured similarly to single-flue caps: we measure the length and width of the flanges on the bottom of the cap (instead of the hood on top of the cap).

With that in mind, here are some of the most common stainless steel multi-flue chimney cap sizes we make:

Multi-flue Stainless Steel Chimney Cap Dimensions (inches)Percentage Manufactured by HY-C
17 x 2924.30%
14 x 2615.43%
17 x 4113.11%
17 x 358.91%
14 x 217.62%
14 x 344.30%
14 x 144.11%
14 x 303.39%
17 x 533.35%

These nine sizes account for about 85% of multi-flue chimney configurations, with 17” x 29” comprising about ¼ of the stainless steel multi-flue caps we manufacture.

Out of these nine common sizes, all of them are rectangular multi-flue caps, with the sole exception of the 14” x 14” size. Other, less common sizes include:

  • 17 x 17
  • 17 x 49
  • 15 x 37
  • 13 x 19
  • 17 x 58

Custom Stainless Steel Chimney Caps

So, despite the percentages, what if your chimney doesn’t fit any of the single- or multi-flue sizes we’ve mentioned so far?

To cover these rare instances, we manufacture custom stainless steel chimney caps. Specifically, we make two types:

  • Band-around-brick caps
  • Skirt-type caps

Because of the personalized nature of these caps’ sizes, there isn’t necessarily much data to share on their dimensions. But we can offer some insight to the caps themselves.

Band-Around-Brick Stainless Steel Chimney Caps

A stainless steel band-around-brick chimney cap installed on a chimney flue against a white background

A band-around-brick chimney cap is just what its name implies: the cap comes with an adjustable band that clamps around the top row of chimney brick when it’s installed.

The combination of this secure installation style and their stainless steel construction makes custom band-around-brick caps an excellent choice. We can even make these caps in standard sizes for people who want that extra bit of protection.

Skirt-Type Stainless Steel Chimney Caps

A custom skirt-type stainless steel chimney cap installed on a chimney against a white background

Stainless steel caps with a skirt are a tailor-made solution that offer even more protection than band-around-brick caps. These caps come with a skirt that covers the chimney’s crown, protecting it from precipitation to prevent cracking or wear and tear.

Like the band-around brick caps, we offer skirt-type stainless steel chimney caps in standard sizes for customers who want some additional protection. These caps may be more expensive up front, but they’ll help to save on expensive chimney repairs in the long run.

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Should You Get a Stainless Steel Chimney Cap?

It should be pretty clear by now that chimney caps are a bit more than a hunk of metal that sits on top of your chimney flue. These caps are complex in their shapes, dimensions, customization options, and more.

Whether you’re looking to add a cap to your unprotected chimney or you’re replacing an older chimney cap, you may be asking right now, “Is a stainless steel chimney cap right for me?

The truth is, they’re not necessarily for everyone.

Black galvanized chimney caps outsell stainless steel caps by 3 to 1, mostly because stainless steel caps are more expensive and offer mostly comparable protection.

But if you’re looking for the most rugged, reliable solution that will withstand wildlife, weather, and everything in between for decades to come, stainless steel is the best choice you could make.

So, what if you want a stainless steel chimney cap?

Well, the first thing to do is to find the right cap size for your flue. Next, you’ll need to install your stainless steel cap. After it’s in place, the cap should last as long as you own your home, providing protection for your chimney and long term peace of mind for you.

Chimney Cap Installation Guide CTA
A rusty old round chimney cap on top of a circular flue tile on a concrete chimney crown

5 Signs It’s Time for a Chimney Cap Replacement

Chimney caps are meant to last a long time, but they certainly don’t last forever. While it’s not uncommon to get 50 years or more out of a chimney cap, they’re just like any other part of your home: eventually, they’ll need to be repaired or, more likely, replaced.

But how do you know when it’s time for a new chimney cap? What should you look out for?

At HY-C, we’ve manufactured well over a million chimney caps in the past few years. We’ve seen it all. From storm damage and wear and tear to defacements caused by raccoons, bats, or squirrels, we know what it looks like when an old cap finally reaches the end of its days.

In this guide, we’re going to cover the five signs to look for to know when it’s time to replace your chimney cap. By the time you’re done, you’ll know how to inspect your chimney cap for damage and how to determine when it’s time to pull the trigger on a new one.

We’ll even provide some resources to help you find a new cap if your old one isn’t up to par anymore.

1. You Don’t Have a Chimney Cap

A model of a brick chimney, concrete chimney crown, and square flue tile sitting on a concrete floor with a gray wall in the background

In the IT world, the most basic question is, “Is your computer turned on?” In the world of chimney caps, the most basic question is, “Does your flue currently even have a cap?”

It may seem rudimentary, but next time you’re out in your neighborhood, take a peek at some of the chimneys on your neighbors’ roofs. You may be surprised by just how many chimneys out there don’t have any kind of cap or cover over their flue tile.

Not having a chimney cap can lead to quite a few problems:

  • Rain, sleet, snow, hail, and other precipitation will get in your fireplace
  • Raccoons, squirrels, bats, and other critters will get in your chimney
  • Sparks from your fireplace could float out and cause a fire

If you have a fireplace and chimney and you don’t have a chimney cap, we’d strongly encourage you to install one soon to mitigate these issues. A good chimney cap doesn’t cost much, and it can save you from a lot of future frustration and repairs.

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2. Your Chimney Cap Is Missing Key Features

A multi-flue chimney cap with no mesh sides installed on a chimney with the home's roof and neighborhood in the background

Like any other industry, chimney caps have evolved over time. Research and development have led to improvements that offer homeowners better protection and more long term peace of mind.


If you have an older cap, check to see if it has wire mesh on the sides. Some older caps don’t. These meshless caps still include a cover (or hood) to keep precipitation out, but animals can still access the flue(s) and get into your chimney.

If your cap doesn’t have mesh sides, it’s very wise to get a new cap that does.

Some newer caps also have a removable hood on them. This makes it easier to clean your chimney. If your current cap’s hood is not removable, upgrading to a new cap with a removable hood will make cleaning your flue a breeze.

3. Your Chimney Cap Is Rusty

A rusty, round chimney cap installed on a round chimney flue with trees in teh background

Nowadays, chimney caps are made of robust materials like stainless steel, galvanized steel, or copper. These strong metals resist rust and corrosion, helping to maintain the structural integrity of the cap.

Old chimney caps or caps made from subpar materials may be susceptible to rust. Rusted chimney caps are brittle. They can be damaged much more easily. Nuisance wildlife looking for a safe spot can take advantage of these vulnerable caps, too, breaking through them and setting up camp.

If your chimney cap is rusty, you should replace it as quickly as possible. A new, rust-free cap is a relatively small investment that will pay off well over time.

4. Your Chimney Cap Is Damaged

A close-up of a round chimney cap band installed on a flue tile with torn mesh screen over the flue pipe

A chimney cap may become damaged for several reasons:

  • Animals may chew through it or bend it
  • Strong winds may deform it (or blow it off entirely)
  • Broken tree limbs may land on it and compress it
  • General weathering/wear and tear may cause it to deteriorate

If a chimney cap is bent, smashed, or contorted in any way, it should be replaced as soon as possible. The hood of a chimney cap needs to be high enough above the flue tile to allow for a good draft. If it isn’t (because the cap is damaged), fireplace gasses (like smoke or carbon monoxide) could blow back into your home.

If a chimney cap’s mesh is broken or bent, that cap will need to be replaced, too. Wildlife constantly looks for ways to exploit openings in homes. Even the slightest deformity in a chimney cap’s mesh could give a bat or squirrel that little bit of extra room they need to get in.

5. Your Cap Doesn’t Match Your Home’s Aesthetics

A square copper chimney cap, square stainless steel chimney cap, and square black chimney cap side by side on a white background

Chimney caps are available in a few different colors, most commonly stainless steel, black, and copper. Each of these three colors can either compliment or clash with the aesthetic of the rest of your home. If your current cap’s color isn’t to your liking, that’s as good a reason as any to replace it.

Maybe you recently had your roof redone and have different-colored shingles now. Maybe you just had your brick or siding painted. Whatever the case, if you make any major changes to the exterior style of your home, it’s a good idea to get a chimney cap that matches that style, too.

What if You Need a New Chimney Cap?

As you can tell by now, there are plenty of reasons why you may need a new chimney cap. From simply not having a cap in the first place to incurring damage to your existing cap, it’s important to make sure your chimney and flue are properly protected.

So, you know the diagnoses now. But what if your chimney cap does need replacing?

The best place to start is finding the right size chimney cap for your flue. Whether you have a square flue, a rectangular flue, or a round flue, most shapes have a wide range of sizes to choose from. You may even want to get a custom chimney cap made just for your house.

After you’ve found the right cap, the next step is to install it. If you feel uncomfortable installing your own chimney cap, reach out to a chimney sweep or a wildlife control professional. They’re well-equipped to complete an installation for you.

After your new cap is on — and barring any major weather events or ornery critters in your area — it should keep you well protected for years to come.

Chimney Cap Installation Guide CTA
Firewood on a bar grate on the left and a pair of hands holding wood pellets on the right with a versus symbol in the middle

Wood Pellets vs. Logs: Which Fuel Should You Burn?

There are a lot of wood fuel options out there, but most wood burning appliances accommodate either wood pellets or wood logs. And even among those two types of fuel, there are several varieties to choose from.

You’re probably at least decently familiar with firewood, especially if you own a fireplace, a fire pit, a wood stove, or a wood furnace. Pellets, on the other hand, may be less familiar.

So which one should you use, and in which appliances? Can some appliances accommodate both? And what kind of burn time can you expect out of each fuel?

At HY-C, we make appliances that utilize both fuels, and we even produce our own pellet fuel. And we want to answer any and all questions you may have about pellets and logs.

By the end of this comprehensive guide, you’ll understand the differences between wood pellets and firewood logs. You’ll know what varieties of each fuel are available, which appliances accommodate each fuel, how much smoke each one puts out, and much more.

More importantly, you’ll know whether your wood burning appliance should use wood pellets or logs so you end up with the best wood burning experience possible.

Wood Pellets vs. Logs: Varieties

A close-up of a pile of wood pellets

Pellets

Wood pellets are used for two purposes: heating and barbecuing. Barbecuing pellets are made to be burned in wood smokers or grills to season meat, enhancing its flavor. Common types of wood pellets used for flavoring include:

  • Apple
  • Cherry
  • Hickory
  • Maple
  • Mesquite
  • Pecan

Heating pellets, on the other hand, consist either of hardwood pellets or softwood pellets. Hardwood pellets are denser and tend to burn for a longer time as a result. Softwood pellets, by contrast, burn hotter, putting out more BTUs (British thermal units).

Logs

There are several types of firewood, and if you asked ten wood burning experts the best species of wood to burn, you may get ten different answers. Very generally, though, common varieties of firewood species found throughout the United States include:

  • Oak
  • Black locust
  • Maple
  • Ash
  • Walnut
  • Elm
  • Birch

Like pellets, firewood can be broken out into hardwood and softwood. Hardwood logs are more dense than softwood logs. Most experts agree that hardwood is better wood to burn, as it burns longer and hotter than softwood. Hardwood entails a higher price as a result, though.

Wood Pellets vs. Logs: Appliances

A person reaching into a smokeless fire pit filled with pellets with a long lighter to light a fire

Pellets

There are quite a few appliances made to burn wood pellets.

Pellet grills allow you to cook meat using wood pellets as fuel instead of charcoal. These grills utilize barbecuing pellets (instead of heating pellets) to flavor food. They’re designed to burn pellets only; they’re not compatible with firewood.

You’re probably familiar with wood burning stoves, but there are also pellet stoves on the market designed to burn wood pellets rather than logs. These stoves radiate heat into the room in which they’re set up, providing warmth during the fall and winter months.

Most wood burning furnaces on the market are designed to burn logs, but there are some pellet furnaces out there. These furnaces tend to burn more cleanly and efficiently than their log-burning counterparts, but they are often much more expensive.

Finally, there are pellet fire pits engineered to burn wood pellets (though most models can also burn logs with no issue). These pellet fire pits are smokeless, leaning on both the pellet fuel and the fire pit’s airflow system to eliminate smoke byproducts.

Flame Genie vs. Solo Stove CTA

Logs

There’s certainly no shortage of appliances that burn logs.

Fireplaces are one of the most common. Whether homeowners use them for warmth or just ambiance, fireplaces have been around for hundreds of years. Most fireplaces feature a grate that holds the wood as it burns, allowing air to flow underneath the logs to keep the fire lit.

Another tried-and-true home heating appliance, wood stoves have been around for centuries, too. They predate their pellet counterparts, but they work the same way, radiating heat into whichever room in which they’re installed.

While smokeless pellet fire pits are catching on in popularity, they’re yet to overshadow the classic wood fire pit. Many backyards across the country feature either a homemade or store-bought fire pit to provide some extra warmth during fall and winter outdoor gatherings.

Finally, wood burning furnaces act as a viable central heating alternative in place of a gas or electric furnace. Firewood burns continuously in the firebox while a distribution blower pushes warm air from the furnace, into the air ducts, and throughout the rest of the home.

The four best wood burning furnaces on the market today CTA

Wood Pellets vs. Logs: Smoke Output

A Flame Genie Inferno smokeless firepit burning wood pellets on a patio

Pellets

Have you ever wondered why fire produces smoke? The answer is moisture content. Trees survive and thrive on water, and when they’re cut into firewood, logs retain much of that moisture. A log can contain 50% or more of its weight in water. That results in a lot of smoke.

Pellets are made of compressed sawdust, so they contain much less moisture than logs. Wood pellets typically have moisture levels of just 5% to 10%. This means that when they’re burned, they tend to produce very little — if any — smoke.

Logs

Do logs give off more smoke than pellets?

The answer is, “It depends.” Even wood that appears dry can have a high moisture content, which will result in a lot of smoke (you can use a moisture meter to test the moisture content of a piece of firewood).

Ideally, firewood should have a moisture content below 20%. Seasoning freshly cut firewood involves splitting it, stacking it, covering it, and storing it. In order to achieve that twenty-percent-or-lower threshold, firewood needs to sit for about 6 to 12 months before use.

Getting your logs’ moisture content down won’t necessarily eliminate smoke entirely. But low moisture will help to mitigate smoke, making for a better burning experience.

Wood Pellets vs. Logs: Burn Time

Ashen firewood burning up in a fire

Pellets

Wood pellets — even dense hardwood pellets — tend to burn up quickly. If you fill a pellet fire pit with about ten pounds of pellets, those pellets will burn for perhaps 15 or 20 minutes before you need to add more to the fire.

Using pellets, you’ll end up with a smoke-free experience and a very efficient fire, but you will have to babysit it quite a bit, adding more fuel relatively often. Be sure to add more pellets slowly, as too many at once will snuff the fire out.

Logs

You’ll get much longer burn times out of firewood compared to pellets. If you start a fire in a fire pit with four logs, you may need to add a new log every 30 to 40 minutes to keep the fire going (that time will vary depending on which species of wood you use and its moisture content).

Using firewood, you’ll likely wind up with more smoke than with pellet fuel. But you won’t have to keep as close an eye on the fire, freeing you up to do other things.

Should You Use Wood Pellets or Logs?

Choosing the right wood fuel can be confusing. Given the differences between pellets and logs, the different types of pellets and logs available, and different species of wood, it can be hard to keep it all straight.

You may be wondering at this point, “Which fuel should I use?”

To answer that question, start with your appliance. A pellet grill is made specifically for pellets, while a wood burning furnace is made just for logs. Fire pits can often accommodate either, so that’s left to your discretion.

After deciding whether you need pellets or logs, choose between hardwood (if you want a longer burn) or softwood (if you’re looking for a hotter burn).

And whatever fuel type you decide to use, always be sure to follow good fire safety habits. Keep a watchful eye on your fire and keep a fire extinguisher nearby in case things get out of control. This way, you’ll enjoy the comfort of the fire while keeping your home — and everything in it — safe.

Best firewood - top 10 types of wood fuel to burn CTA
A spate of Good Vibrations outdoor power upgrade products against a white background

Good Vibrations: How Packaging is Your Best Salesperson

If you’re a retail buyer, the best products you can stock are those whose packaging is designed to sell itself. If you’re an outdoor power equipment (OPE) parts buyer, that can be tough; OPE parts don’t always come with the most compelling packaging.

Good Vibrations — a line of outdoor power equipment upgrade parts for lawn mowers and trimmers by HY-C — is a different story.

We’ve designed these products to have persuasive packaging that customers can interact with to see how they work. When customers take the products off the shelves and test them for themselves, they’re more inclined to understand how they work and envision a use for them, leading to a sale.

In this guide, we’re going to take you through the packaging of each Good Vibrations product. We’ll show you how customers can interact with (or at the very least, see) key features of each piece of equipment and how those interactions can help to increase the likelihood of a sale.

Easy-Rider Tight-Turn Steering Knob

A person holding and rotating a Good Vibrations Easy-Rider Tight-Turn Steering Knob while facing the camera

The Easy Rider is a robust, one-size-fits-all steering wheel knob. It’s designed to help you steer your tractor (or boat or UTV) with one hand simply by grabbing the knob and spinning the wheel.

The Easy Rider’s packaging lets customers actually turn the knob and test the product out for themselves. They can feel the smooth, easy tolerance of the knob and the rubber grip that ensures their hand won’t slip while they use it.

Grass Hawk Dual-Bladed Mower Scraper

A person unlocking and rotating the dual-bladed head of a Good Vibrations Grass Hawk Dual-Bladed Mower Scraper while facing the camera

Cleaning the deck of a lawn mower (whether it’s a simple push mower or a zero turn mower) is tough work, especially with the wrong tools. The Grass Hawk is a specialized tool designed to make the job of scraping off grass much simpler.

It features both a flat and a curved scraper head for extra versatility. You can swap between each blade by rotating the head and locking it into place with the notch on the front of the tool. The packaging allows customers to test out this rotating motion for themselves to discover just how easy it is to switch blades.

Rough Rider Off-Road Drinking Mug

A person opening and closing the spring-loaded locking lid of a Good Vibrations Rough Rider Off-Road Drinking Mug while facing the camera

The Rough Rider is a rugged, 24 oz. drinking mug with a locking lid that only opens when you push down on its button. It also features a rubber base that contours to most cup holders.

In its packaging, the Rough Rider allows customers to feel the spring-loaded opening mechanism and to see just how tightly it seals in drinks. They can also test out the rubber base to feel how grippy and pliable it is.

The King Pin Quick-Connect Hitch Pin

A person opening and closing the butterfly-style locking mechanism of a Good Vibrations Kingpin Quick-Connect Hitch Pin while facing the camera

The King Pin comes with a butterfly-style locking mechanism at its tip that opens and closes when squeezing a trigger embedded in the handle. This allows you to attach and detach to a hitch simply, using just one hand.

Not only can customers test the spring-loaded, butterfly-style locking mechanism, but the packaging itself features a hitch graphic. It’s designed to show what the King Pin looks like in action, painting an easy visual that consumers can understand.

Auto-Lock Magnetic Hitch Pin

A person holding a Good Vibrations Auto-Lock Magnetic Hitch Pin while facing the camera

The Auto-Lock Magnetic Hitch Pin is the second hitch pin in the Good Vibrations lineup. It locks into place with magnetic force, doing away with the butterfly-style connection of the Kingpin.

If a customer happens to have something metal (like a keychain) on them, they can touch it to the neodymium magnet to feel its 25 pounds of locking force at work. The most compelling part of the packaging, though, is the ability to feel the ergonomic grip of the hitch pin by simply grabbing and holding the handle.

Wheelies Tractor Wheel Covers

A person holding Good Vibrations Wheelies Tractor Wheel Covers while facing the camera

Our Wheelies Tractor Wheel Covers are designed to snap into place over existing tractor rims. They help prevent rust and discoloration while also adding some customizability to a tractor’s wheels.

They’re available in black and chrome, and they come in five different accent colors: orange, burnt orange, yellow, red, and black. The packaging exposes the wheel covers, allowing customers to see the vivid colors for themselves instead of just displaying the colors on a box graphic.

Start Me Up Full Grip Starter Handle

A person holding a Good Vibrations Start Me Up Full Grip Starter Handle while facing the camera

The Start Me Up handle is an upgrade part meant to replace the T-style handle that comes on most lawn mowers, chainsaws, snow blowers, and other pull cord-powered motors.

The packaging lets customers feel the handle for themselves; it features a curved, rubber grip for maximum comfort and ease of use. As the box graphics show, it also comes with a replacement rope. Customers who hold the Start Me Up for themselves will understand immediately that it’s a substantial upgrade from their stock starter handle.

Get-A-Grip Full Grip Deluxe Handle and Rope

A Good Vibrations Get-A-Grip Full Grip Deluxe Handle and Rope in packaging leaning against a wall

The Get-A-Grip starter handle doesn’t necessarily allow shoppers to touch and feel it in its packaging, but it’s still clear from its transparent plastic what the upgrade part has to offer.

Instead of using two fingers to grip an awkward T-handle while starting their mower, customers will be drawn to the full-grip handle that the Get-A-Grip offers. It also comes with a replacement rope which is clearly visible in the packaging.

Zero Gravity Trimmer Shoulder Strap

A Good Vibrations Zero Gravity Trimmer Shoulder Strap in its packaging leaning against a wall

The Zero Gravity Trimmer Shoulder Strap is a universal strap that attaches to trimmers, leaf blowers, and other outdoor power tools. It’s designed to alleviate the back pain that comes with weed eating and leaf blowing.

In this case, the graphics and the words on the box sell the product. With eye-catching font colors used for “WEIGHT ABSORBING”, and with “Trimmers Feels 75% Lighter!” highlighted in yellow, customers will get the gist of this product right away.

Hitchin’ Post+ 3-Way Hitch Plate

A Good Vibrations Hitchin' Post+ 3-Way Hitch Plate in its packaging leaning against a wall

The Hitchin’ Post+ is a three-way hitch plate for tractors and ATVs. It allows users to tow using three different methods: a tow ball, a hitch pin, or chains.

What’s not apparent in the picture is the weight of the product. In a customer’s hands, it feels substantial and well-made. It’s also apparent from the packaging that the Hitchin’ Post+ comes with a ball — a much-needed towing component that doesn’t need to be bought separately.

Z Hitch Zero-Turn 3-Way Hitch Plate

A Good Vibrations Z Hitch Zero-Turn 3-Way Hitch Plate in its packaging leaning against a wall

Some zero turn lawn mowers come with a hitch plate attached, but many don’t. The Z Hitch attaches to any hitchless zero turn mower with ease, allowing users to tow whatever they need.

Like the Hitchin’ Post+, the Z Hitch feels substantial in a customer’s hands. It’s heavy-duty, capable of towing tough loads without missing a beat. There’s also a graphic on the front which shows the hitch in action, painting a comprehensible picture in a customer’s mind.

Seat Magic Tractor Seat Repair

A tube of Good Vibrations Seat Magic Tractor Seat Repair in its packaging leaning against a wall

Tractor owners know that tractor seats wear out over time. It’s just inevitable. These seats develop rips and holes regularly, and replacing the entire seat is expensive.

Seat Magic offers a much cheaper alternative. It’s a sealant that you apply to a rip or hole in a tractor seat. When it dries, the seat is as good as new. The before-and-after picture on the packaging is simple but effective, demonstrating how the product works and how easy it is to use.

Should You Stock Good Vibrations in Your Store?

Good Vibration’s packaging is no accident. Everything about it — from the colors and materials to the words and the graphics — is designed to tell a story about how each product can make an aspect of lawn care easier, safer, or more efficient for a customer.

Put simply, Good Vibrations product packaging is like having an extra salesperson out on your floor. The interactivity, the imagery, the pithiness — it’s all designed to tap into a customer’s needs and make them realize they need a solution they may not have even been looking for.

So, should you stock Good Vibrations in your retail store?

Well, if your store has an outdoor power equipment parts section and you want to drive truly incremental sales, we believe Good Vibrations is an excellent opportunity.

We’ve seen it work in big box retail stores who sell hundreds of units per month. Just let the packaging tell the story for you. Let it sell itself — that’s how it’s designed to work.

If you’re interested in giving it a try, get in touch with our sales team. They’ll be more than happy to work with you to get Good Vibrations on your store’s shelves.

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